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M A R I N E   G E O L O G Y    &   G E O P H Y S I C S

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   As many interesting geological features as there are on land, nearly as many exist within, under, and at the boundaries of the
   oceans. Mountains, valleys, volcanoes, islands, plains, canyons -- all exist in similar form in the marine realm. They also use
   remote sensing technology to map the ridges and valleys. It has been written that the ocean bottoms are the most active
   places on Earth, from a geological perspective.

   Conditions at many of these sites make it difficult for marine geologists to visit and study. Before the technological advances
   of only a few decades ago -- piloted submersibles, remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), and programmable acoustic
   instruments attached to ships -- oceanographers could only speculate about the very existence of underwater geological
   features. Such advances have not only proven the existence of underwater features, they have made it possible to develop
   accurate maps and detailed, 3-D computer models of the seafloor.

   Geological oceanographers study the formations, composition, and history of the seafloor. They examine sediments,
   including physical characteristics such as size, shape, color, and weight; chemical characteristics, such as composition and
   how sediments interact with the environment; and other factors, including sediment age, origin, distribution, and transport. By
   combining their knowledge of marine chemistry and physical oceanography, marine geologists help piece together
   information about how the Earth formed and how the movement of plates and continents results in events such as volcanoes
   and earthquakes. Also, marine geologists work with biologists and chemical oceanographers to learn more about historical
   climate records and animal and plant life by examining sediment and rock cores for fossils and analyzing sediment
   composition using radiocarbon dating and other methods.

   Related Occupations

   * Seismology
   * Ocean Drilling
   * Ocean Mining, Oil and Gas Exploration
   * Coastal Geology

   Some of the major areas of specialization within the field of geological oceanography are described below:

   Seismology

   Marine seismologists map the Earth's interior structure by looking at changes in the way sound travels through the planet's
   various layers. These sound patterns appear as "waves." Seismic energy travels as an elastic wave, meaning that it can be
   reflected from the seafloor ("reflection") or it can penetrate through the seafloor and the layers within the Earth's interior and
   be bent as it travels ("refraction"). An important tool used by marine seismologists to "read" patterns of sound waves is the
   seismogram. You have probably seen examples of seismograms, which depict measurements of earthquake patterns. The
   instrument that records these measurements is called a seismometer. Though it's hard to imagine, there are thousands of
   microearthquakes beneath the ocean floor each day!

   Ocean Drilling

   The international Ocean Drilling Program (ODP), successor to the Deep Sea Drilling Project (DSDP) begun in 1968, is a
   partnership of scientists and governments created to explore the Earth's origin and evolution beneath the seafloor. Aboard the
   drill ship JOIDES Resolution, researchers from around the world gather samples of sediment and rock from below the ocean
   floor. (The "JOIDES" part of the ship's name stands for Joint Oceanographic Institutions for Deep Earth Sampling.)

   Important discoveries made by the ODP include a new understanding of the causes and history of ice ages, the evolution of
   the continental margins, Earth's tectonic processes, marine sedimentation, and the origin and evolution of oceanic crust.
   Investigators involved in the ODP may specialize in sedimentology (the study of matter that settles to the bottom of the sea),
   paleontology (the study of fossil plants and animals and of the rock formations in which these fossils are found), petrology
   (the study of the origin, occurrence, structure, and composition of rocks), geochemistry, geophysics, and paleomagnetics.

   Ocean Mining, Oil and Gas Exploration

   Ocean manganese nodules -- small, dark, and round-shaped nodules that contain manganese, nickel, copper, cobalt, and
   other minerals -- are found along the floor of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. The nodules were first discovered on the famous
   oceanographic Challenger expedition of the 1870s. Steel production requires millions of tons of manganese annually. Though
   ocean mining for manganese nodules has generated a great deal of interest, several factors have served as obstacles,
   including the difficult ocean terrain, the high cost, and political and international difficulties relating to its legality.

   Similar problems associated with oil and gas exploration have caused international and national debate. While no one knows
   the exact extent of the oil and gas deposits in the ocean, oceanographers have made important discoveries about these
   potential reserves. The cost of exploring these sites is high. And, even if oil or gas reserves are found, recovering the
   resources is not always pursued due to the high cost of developing the site or other reasons.

   Partnerships between scientists and industry are important in the area of oil and gas exploration; oil companies constantly
   seek new reserves, while science makes it possible for companies to locate, analyze, and reach the resource. Current
   production takes place in the oceanic areas of continental margins, such as the Gulf of Mexico and the North Sea.

   Coastal Geology

   An increasingly important area of marine geology is coastal geology. Throughout history, the human population has shown a
   tendency to settle along the world's 273,000 miles of coastline. The effects of humans inhabiting our shores and coastlines
   have become increasingly apparent. Coastal pollution and waste disposal are creating problems and costing government and
   industry billions of dollars in research and remediation efforts. Although the percentage of people living on the coast is
   expected to remain fairly constant over the next few decades, total numbers are expected to increase as population continues
   to increase.

   In addition to human effects on our shores, natural coastal processes such as rising sea level, erosion, and sediment
   transport, and storm-related events such as flooding, severe erosion, and storm overwash make our coastal areas dynamic
   environments. Often, humans react by attempting to protect structures situated along the coast, including homes,
   businesses, and roads, even when these structures are located on land forms, such as barrier beaches, that are "temporary"
   in a geologic sense of time. To protect these structures, coastal engineers have developed and constructed seawalls, jetties,
   groins, and bridges. More recently, natural or "soft solutions" such as constructed wetlands and salt marshes have been
   developed to slow the effects of coastal processes. Coastal geologists and coastal engineers, working with oceanographers
   from each of the disciplines, will be instrumental in forming policy and management options to minimize the conflicts between
   coastal development and natural processes.

 

 

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